shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Jan 10, 2020 23:17:43 GMT
I bought some UHU superglue a while ago, got to test it out yesterday. Works like a Firetrucking charm, five seconds and it's already set. The old stuff took ages to set and would keep releasing fumes the whole way. Very pleased it's such an easy fix.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jan 11, 2020 17:57:23 GMT
Glad to hear that problem is solved.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Jan 12, 2020 13:23:39 GMT
Really want to make a maskless wrastler conversion one of these days. doubt It'll be anytime this year, but a man can dream. every time I see a farrow conversion thread I get an overwhelming urge to make my own conversions, but WMH doesn't lend itself to that massively well outside of farrow and mercs, neither of which I own.
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Post by Charistoph on Jan 12, 2020 18:50:09 GMT
Maskless would be interesting. Lucho Libre or one of the 80's wrestlers like Macho Man with all the pomp and pagentry could be interesting, too. The latter would be easier since you would be adding to instead of taking away from. With the maskless, you'd either have to grab another gator head and mold it to fit or remove the mask and then sculpt in the rest of the head. If you have the skills, I think it would amazing to see. Of course, making sure it didn't look like a better Snapjaw would be part of the task.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Jan 31, 2020 21:31:35 GMT
More or less finished Agata a couple of days ago. Still experimenting with photography, getting halfway decent photos is far harder than it has any right to be. Agata's easily makes it to my top 10, maybe even top 5 models in terms of aesthetic appeal, it's just a shame that I'll probably never have a reason to field her, even in a minions army. Still, painting her was a lot of fun, and it's been a while since I got to use my Pendulous Brass Balls on a mini. Painting metal's still a bit tough, it's very easy to overdo the highlights and end up with metal that looks far too white. Still doubt I'll ever switch to NMM, something about it just doesn't feel right to me.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Feb 1, 2020 12:11:08 GMT
Yeah, these photos really aren't doing the model justice.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Feb 6, 2020 20:54:51 GMT
discovered a new gobber skin recipe on youtube. friendship is over with Grass Green (coat d'arms), now Wurm Green (P3) + Oriental Flesh (CdA) is my new best friend. and not to forget, midlund flesh + ryn flesh on the nose.
Can't be helped, bright, highly saturated models just look superior to dark, desaturated stuff in my eyes in 99.9% of the cases. I'm gonna need to figure out a different recipe for more bluish gobbers now, I like the yellowish tone a lot, but I still like the red eyepatch gobber skintone (though I don't remember how to make it - I couldn't reproduce it when I tried with grass green, so I'm a bit lost) and I'm gonna need some variety.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Feb 9, 2020 1:25:59 GMT
So a guy told me I shouldn't put my resin minis in floor or dish polish to clean them, and just use hot water and soap. Is that really enough? The only resin model I've touched so far is the krielstone and winter troll, I washed the former with soap and paint just plain wont adhere to it, as bad as metal. Haven't tried painting the stone yet, but the cleaning doesnt seem to have damaged it.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Feb 9, 2020 6:54:37 GMT
I don't know what dish polish is, and I've never used floor polish. I wash models with warm water and dishsoap before applying a rattle-can primer, that's usually worked for me. At least the primer has stuck to the model; in the past I've had paint refuse to stick to the primer...
What kind of primer are you using again? Is the primer not sticking to the model, or is the paint not sticking to the primer?
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Feb 9, 2020 7:19:44 GMT
I don't know what dish polish is, and I've never used floor polish. I wash models with warm water and dishsoap before applying a rattle-can primer, that's usually worked for me. At least the primer has stuck to the model; in the past I've had paint refuse to stick to the primer... What kind of primer are you using again? Is the primer not sticking to the model, or is the paint not sticking to the primer? I meant dish detergent I'm using the vallejo black airbrush primer, applied by brush. It's not that the paint won't stick at all, it just flakes off really easily, easier than metal at some points. Varnishing didnt help either.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Feb 9, 2020 7:42:33 GMT
I haven't personally heard of dish detergent harming resin models, that sounds very unlikely to me. Maybe the airbrush primer just doesn't like being brushed on? Varnish isn't exactly designed to be painted on, a matt varnish will probably be fine but a gloss varnish might not be a good surface to paint on top of. Btw what kind of paints are you using? Do you thin them with anything?
Personally I've found that the oils from my hand can prevent paint from sticking to a model (even on top of primer or other paints) or rub the paint off once it's there, so once a model is washed I try to avoid touching it with my bare skin until after it's completely varnished and done. I use a painting stand to hold the model while painting, and will even wear gloves if it's a model or something that I can't avoid touching. I wear an artist-style glove (the ones that only cover the last two fingers) on my painting hand so I can stabilise my hand against the model with my gloved little finger but hold the brush with my exposed fingers (the support hand has a full glove for handling the mini). And if I need to paint an area that I have touched (such as the rims of the bases; I can't seem to avoid touching those) then I wipe them gently with a dry tissue just before I start painting them, that seems to help.
That's just me though, I've read posts from people who have similar issues, and people who don't, so it's not something that affects everyone.
BTW did you ever look into the airbrush thing?
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Feb 9, 2020 8:46:40 GMT
I absolutely want to get an airbrush down the line, but haven't had the time to properly research it yet. I should start working with gloves again too. P3 and Coat d'arms are the only paints I use currently, so regular acrylic mini paint, and I thin them with water.
I used a grip as you suggested for some time, but I don't have a point of reference whether it helps with resin, since both models I've freely touched with my fingers. That's another one of those things I really ought to get back to.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Feb 10, 2020 19:07:22 GMT
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Feb 10, 2020 19:44:44 GMT
in case I forget: the skin recipe is as follows -
basecoat - Pale Green (Coat d'arms) + British Khaki (Coat d'arms) - about 2:1 ratio highlight - Pale Green (cda) + Sulfuric Yellow (P3) - 3:1 ratio, change as needed shade - armor wash (p3) + a dot of pale green - only into the recesses between the scales
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Post by Soul Samurai on Feb 11, 2020 6:22:32 GMT
I don't think the dark blue works very well on the model on the right, except on the bit of rubble on the base - it actually looks like a very nice translucent blue statue, it's much nicer than the sort of nondescript grey rubble under the one on the left. Other than that they look good. I especially like the deep jade green on the back scales of the model on the left - although the brown scales on the other one do still work. The red feathers look good and add a nice spot colour.
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