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Post by Soul Samurai on May 31, 2019 22:27:51 GMT
I don't know if these sanding sticks will make the job easier or anything, perhaps they will, I've always gotten by as best I could with a hobby knife and sandpaper, along with greenstuff. While mold lines can generally just be scraped or sanded off, normally you're actually getting some degree of mold slippage. If it's a just a little bit of a misalignment I will just sand the area smooth, but if there's more than that I will lay greenstuff along the recessed side of the slip/line, smooth it over the area with a clay shaper, then the next day I will sand it with a fine grit sanpaper. This way you fill the recess caused by the mold slippage rather than trying to take all the material off the raised side.
Locally I can find sandpaper in shops that that sell tools, building supplies, etc; only a couple of them have actual fine grit sandpaper, but I don't think you really need a fine grit for most work as the primer and paint should smooth out a slightly rough surface. I feel like you can get by with maybe 400 grit sandpaper if you have a light touch, and more than 800 grit is probably overkill. I cut sandpaper to small strips (around 1cm by say 10cm) and fold the strips to get a rough and relatively stiff corner when I need to get into a smaller area.
On rare occasion I will use an engraving tip on a dremel tool to get at a particularly troublesome spot, but this will often require smoothing with a touch of greenstuff afterwards as it's hard to get a smooth surface with an engraving tool.
I haven't seen the mold lines on a troll model, it might help a bit if you post photos of the troublesome areas?
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Jun 1, 2019 9:54:56 GMT
That's the one I've been struggling with the most. It's big, it's ugly, and I don't have a clue how to clean it up without massacring the detail around it. I managed to clean up a bit of it below the lips, but that's about it.
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mazog
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Walking and talking
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Post by mazog on Jun 1, 2019 17:17:40 GMT
Shmeep
<image not included><alt-text> Except for the bit between the brows and crest and from tongue to lip, it can be cleaned with focus and hobby knife. Where can I host images for free? I'd like to post a picture showing that you can do a pretty good job with just a hobby knife. </alt-text>
I did this with a hobby knife and maybe a bit of sanding. Of the three mentioned models, one of each is handy and I think this is the worst-looking of the three as far as this aspect is concerned.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jun 1, 2019 17:28:36 GMT
I feel like you could clean up around the mouth and jaw with a sharp hobby knife. Around the nose and brow you could try smoothing over the problem area with a bit of greenstuff, then optionally sanding it very lightly with some fine-grit sandpaper after 24 hours (I like to give greenstuff a full day to fully cure before trying to sand it).
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Jun 1, 2019 22:52:36 GMT
Shmeep <image not included><alt-text> Except for the bit between the brows and crest and from tongue to lip, it can be cleaned with focus and hobby knife. Where can I host images for free? I'd like to post a picture showing that you can do a pretty good job with just a hobby knife. </alt-text> I did this with a hobby knife and maybe a bit of sanding. Of the three mentioned models, one of each is handy and I think this is the worst-looking of the three as far as this aspect is concerned. I upload all of my pics to tumblr. Website's an absolute mess, but it works very well for image hosting. I'm pretty curious how much you managed to clean up now. I'm not that confident in my skill with the knife yet, so I don't really know how much you can achieve with it yet.
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mazog
Junior Strategist
Walking and talking
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Post by mazog on Jun 2, 2019 1:23:11 GMT
I really like my cut-proof glove, it gives me the confidence to use my other hand to brace the blade even more precisely. I usually do that stuff with both arms tucked in tight and brace at least one finger on the model while taking slices off. I usually end up taking quite a few cuts before I am satisfied, so don't think I am some kind of one-cut genius. I've also got at least a hundred models under my belt and it gets way better with practice. I made a tumblr account and put the picture there, but can't figure out how to get it to appear here. Maybe y'all can find it in that mess. <div class="tumblr-post" data-href="https://embed.tumblr.com/embed/post/oDsngdcZe47JEOq9nYcIJA/185304422788" data-did="f3971f3f429655cc6ec3fa91c1e52ba85f0d9337"><a href="https://mazogsmodels.tumblr.com/post/185304422788/i-am-by-no-means-an-expert-but-a-hobby-knife-and">https://mazogsmodels.tumblr.com/post/185304422788/i-am-by-no-means-an-expert-but-a-hobby-knife-and</a></div> <script async src="https://assets.tumblr.com/post.js"></script>
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Post by Charistoph on Jun 2, 2019 2:29:01 GMT
I really like my cut-proof glove, it gives me the confidence to use my other hand to brace the blade even more precisely. I usually do that stuff with both arms tucked in tight and brace at least one finger on the model while taking slices off. I usually end up taking quite a few cuts before I am satisfied, so don't think I am some kind of one-cut genius. I've also got at least a hundred models under my belt and it gets way better with practice. I made a tumblr account and put the picture there, but can't figure out how to get it to appear here. Maybe y'all can find it in that mess. Looks like you were trying to present the web page itself as an image. Getting the image's location from the page and putting it in to the src seems to fix it, maybe?
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Jun 6, 2019 21:57:22 GMT
hey all, I want to buy a respirator; every time I prime my minis I feel extremely ill afterwards. Haven't primed anything for about 3 months because of it, and I don't want to take any more risks with that stuff because I personally know people who got cancer / nerve diseases from exposure to these kinds of chemicals without proper protection. Problem is, I don't know jack shit about safety equipment. Any idea what kind of protection I should get? The ingredients listed on my primer are " acetone, butyl acelate, and xylene (mix). " My first guess would be B (inorganic gas), but I don't want to work off guesses. Interestingly, this page recommends using an A2P3 mask, which happened to be the first thing that caught my eye at a local safety equipment site. eu.magnaflux.com/faq/respiratory-protection/www.worker.co.il/shop/kit-duo-filters-2050-a2p3r/www.worker.co.il/shop/halfmask-nature-ffa2p3rd/first one's advertised as "EN140:1998 standard", the second as "EN 405:2001 +A1:2009 standard". I imagine that stands for different safety regulations + the year they were made, so the baseline assumption would be that the second mask offers better protection. In addition to that, I might do some resin casting for school at some point later this year or next year. I'd imagine that requires a completely different set of protection gear? as always, appreciate you guys' help.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jun 7, 2019 4:07:32 GMT
Sorry, don't know anything about that kind of thing, but have you considered a brush-on primer?
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Jun 7, 2019 5:48:34 GMT
Sorry, don't know anything about that kind of thing, but have you considered a brush-on primer? Fanguad suggested using them a while ago. Do they release fumes? I'll give it a try if they don't.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jun 7, 2019 7:05:28 GMT
I don't think they do. Just grab a small bottle of Vallejo primer and give it a try.
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Post by Charistoph on Jun 7, 2019 7:48:48 GMT
If brush-on primer has fumes, I doubt it would be much worse than most of your other bush-on paints. Most of the fumes from the rattle-cans come from system for getting the paint out.
I did see someone using brush-on primer some years ago, and I didn't really smell it any more than anything else he painted with.
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mazog
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Post by mazog on Jun 7, 2019 12:18:36 GMT
Since no one else is popping up to speak from knowledge I will point out that I bought a filter mask from a hardware store like professional painters wear, with replaceable filters on either side, and managed to stink up the whole house with airbrush thinner while degunking my airbrush without smelling anything. Make sure to read the instructions and check the seal during both in-and exhale for real protection.
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fanguad
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Post by fanguad on Jun 7, 2019 13:18:43 GMT
Rattlecan primer (rattlecan anything actually) should only be used in a well-ventilated area. Lots of nasty chemicals you don't want to inhale, but if you do it outside, you won't breath in enough to matter. If you do it in a garage you'll probably want a mask because it the fumes won't dissipate fast enough.
With Airbrush primer (and anything airbrush) you're atomizing acrylic paint (not deadly, but not really something you want to breath either) and whatever thinner you use (I have no idea what's in that). Your face is probably a lot closer to the airbrush than a rattle can, so even though it's less bad you'll breath in a lot more.
Brush-on primer is usually a variant of acrylic paint. The only fumes you'll get are evaporating water, so this is perfectly safe to use in a poorly-ventilated room. Reaper and Vallejo (maybe Army Painter and GW) make brush-on primer. Vallejo and Badger make airbrush primer. Brush-on and airbrush primer are basically the same thing, except the airbrush version is thinner, which might make it harder to get a good coat with a brush. Primer will eat your brushes so don't use your best ones. Brush-on primer usually needs to be thinned with a little bit of water, and you won't get a nice even coat like you do with rattlecan/airbrush, but that's okay, you just need to make sure everything this covered.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Jun 7, 2019 19:52:53 GMT
Rattlecan primer (rattlecan anything actually) should only be used in a well-ventilated area. Lots of nasty chemicals you don't want to inhale, but if you do it outside, you won't breath in enough to matter. If you do it in a garage you'll probably want a mask because it the fumes won't dissipate fast enough. With Airbrush primer (and anything airbrush) you're atomizing acrylic paint (not deadly, but not really something you want to breath either) and whatever thinner you use (I have no idea what's in that). Your face is probably a lot closer to the airbrush than a rattle can, so even though it's less bad you'll breath in a lot more. Brush-on primer is usually a variant of acrylic paint. The only fumes you'll get are evaporating water, so this is perfectly safe to use in a poorly-ventilated room. Reaper and Vallejo (maybe Army Painter and GW) make brush-on primer. Vallejo and Badger make airbrush primer. Brush-on and airbrush primer are basically the same thing, except the airbrush version is thinner, which might make it harder to get a good coat with a brush. Primer will eat your brushes so don't use your best ones. Brush-on primer usually needs to be thinned with a little bit of water, and you won't get a nice even coat like you do with rattlecan/airbrush, but that's okay, you just need to make sure everything this covered. I've always used the primer cans either on the roof or the balcony. Doesn't matter, unless I hold my breath, cover my nose, book it after 2-3 quick sprays, and close all windows I get sick. That stuff is unbelievably vile. If I were ever stupid enough to spray it indoors I'd most likely die on the spot. That being said, dangers aside, I can't deny the convenience of rattlecans. Famous last words, huh?
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