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Post by deathbymelancholy on May 1, 2019 12:49:49 GMT
I have started using some Vallejo colours recently. The only "issue" I've found is that their "Game Air" line is not suited for application with a brush (I've had no issues using it with an airbrush as intended), so I've had to pick up matching colours from the "Game Color" line for brush use - which is complicated slightly by the colours having different names in different lines (although I understand the reasons for this). Of course you can just run "Game Color" through an airbrush if you thin it, but I'm OK paying for convenience in this case. Having said that I am used to thinning my paints; so it's really hard for me to say if Vallejo will be as thick as you seem to like? I have found that they tend to settle in the bottle and don't have an agitator included so shaking them doesn't seem to work that well; the first few times the paint came out REALLY thin and watery, so I had to open the bottle and add an agitator myself. After that the paint seemed to come out reasonably thick. I suppose if it's not thick enough for you, you can let the bottle sit for a while, then pour out some of the medium that will gather at the mouth, then add an agitator and shake properly? Eh, at the end of the day all you can do is buy a couple of bottles to try them yourself. Bear in mind that even within a single paint line different colours can have different properties, so I guess there is no easy answer. I store my Vallejo upside down. None of them have agitators and shaking seems to work just fine for me.
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Post by NoSuchMethod on May 1, 2019 15:54:40 GMT
White primer being bad isn't unique to you. I've tried at least half a dozen types and none of them are great. Citadel, P3, Tamiya, etc... even when the rest of the line is awesome, the white spray is still a pain. Sometimes you can get a good coat, but it's extremely (EXTREMELY) moisture dependent. Anything higher than 20% humidity I wouldn't even bother. Grays tend to be better, and it's fairly easy to layer up to white from a gray, so these days I never really use white spray except for the odd winter terrain piece.
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fanguad
Junior Strategist
Posts: 210
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Post by fanguad on May 2, 2019 12:40:29 GMT
Is the vallejo model color Gold 172 any good? I got coat d'arms' bright gold and it looks so tired just looking at it makes me age a decade.
I have the Model Air Gold (which I think is the same color as 172), and it's fairly dark. ie, looks fine next to dark things, but next to anything bright or saturated it doesn't look like gold. Game Color Glorious Gold is a very, very bright gold. It's my personal favorite gold out of all the paints I have.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on May 2, 2019 13:06:26 GMT
Is the vallejo model color Gold 172 any good? I got coat d'arms' bright gold and it looks so tired just looking at it makes me age a decade.
I have the Model Air Gold (which I think is the same color as 172), and it's fairly dark. ie, looks fine next to dark things, but next to anything bright or saturated it doesn't look like gold. Game Color Glorious Gold is a very, very bright gold. It's my personal favorite gold out of all the paints I have.
The preview color for it looks pretty dark, honestly. Wouldn't 72055 polished gold be better? The gold tone I want to emulate is the one on Ragnor1 in particular.
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fanguad
Junior Strategist
Posts: 210
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Post by fanguad on May 2, 2019 14:53:33 GMT
Unfortunately web snippets are pretty terrible for determining the exact shade of paint. Worse with metallics.
Yeah, Glorious Gold isn't what you're going for. You might try mixing a silver and gold you already have to approximate that shade.
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Post by NoSuchMethod on May 6, 2019 14:39:19 GMT
Yeah, Glorious Gold isn't what you're going for. You might try mixing a silver and gold you already have to approximate that shade. At that point it's often just easier to grab a tube of pearlescent medium and add color to suit. Typically just takes a little bit of brown / yellow / red added to bring it down to the desired gold / brass / copper / whatever. As always with mixing, the trick is to just add it a little at a time.
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Post by slaughtersun on May 7, 2019 7:46:17 GMT
The best gold out there is retributor armour from gw. It covers in one smooth coat and you can wash it with agrax, sepia or fleshshade and you are good to go. If you want to highlight it just mix it with any silver to your tastes.
As for "silver" metalics i cant recommend vallejo metal air enough. They are the best.
If you want/can check youtube for vince venturella's channel as he reviews the air mettalics there.
I' ve recently picked scale75 woodland set and its great. Just takes some time to get used to because the paints work differently.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on May 17, 2019 13:14:28 GMT
Made a bit more progress with the Trollblood and Skorne battlegroups. I've decided I'll try out the Aldebaran Red out a bit more after all. My biggest gripe with it is that it has a really chalky finish, but beyond that the minis look fine, honestly. As I've found out a couple of days ago, it turns out I can get P3 paints from miniature market at a very reasonable price, including shipping. I feel really dumb for having bought a lot of Coat d'arms bottles now. The bouncer's a bit special - for the head, all of the highlights were done with a drybrush, a big one at that. I think brushing them on wet gives better results, but doing it like this took all of 5 minutes, so as a quick painting method it works really well. All of these minis were part of the 2 player battlebox I bought a year ago (my first purchase) so there's a lot of mistaken I made in them - little to no mold line cleanup, I cut off all of the little base inserts, and while it's not visible in this pic, the bouncer has a big, fat fingerprint on its back from when I accidentally spilled a bunch of superglue on it. Ragnor's hammer also isn't actually touching the base, which drives me up the roof every time I see it. Once summer break comes around I'll have time to start cranking these out at a better pace. I'm looking forward to it.
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 18, 2019 5:43:37 GMT
Looking good so far. I assume you're going to add some basing, right? So just build up the base so it's touching the hammer.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on May 28, 2019 10:35:33 GMT
What material does PP use for their studio art bases? The closest I could find is woodland scenics' ballast line. Is that it? And which company's static grass do they use?
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 28, 2019 10:59:22 GMT
I have no idea. I guess you could ask over on the PP forums, but the "ask the studio" thread hasn't had an official reply in a while.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on May 28, 2019 12:52:25 GMT
I feel like it's not even worth bothering to go there, the thread seems to be as dead as a doornail.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on May 31, 2019 17:36:43 GMT
Hey all, I'm looking to buy some files and sanding paper. I have a lot of trouble reaching mold lines on detail with my minis (such as the trolls' faces), and even after cleanup there are significant marks left. I'm looking at flex-i-file's sanding paper and Testor's file set. are they any good? www.amazon.com/Flex-I-File-0550-Flex-Set-Complete-Finishing/dp/B00AQME7UG
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 31, 2019 19:07:27 GMT
That looks a touch pricey? I mainly just use regular sandpaper from the hardware store. It can be hard to find finer grits sometimes, but it shouldn't be impossible. I don't know if there's any difference between the kind of fine metal file you find in local hardware stores and the kind they sell specifically for miniatures, I suspect that the difference is minimal. I don't usually usually use files for cleaning mold lines though, I mainly only use them for actual converstions (like flattenning a surface after cutting a weapon off, that sort of thing). Nail buff sticks are something you can probably find locally as well, though I suspect they won't be as good for fine detail. As far as metal files go, any small metal file is probably fine.
If you do decide to try these flexible sanding sticks or anything like that, let us know how they work out.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on May 31, 2019 20:47:41 GMT
That looks a touch pricey? I mainly just use regular sandpaper from the hardware store. It can be hard to find finer grits sometimes, but it shouldn't be impossible. I don't know if there's any difference between the kind of fine metal file you find in local hardware stores and the kind they sell specifically for miniatures, I suspect that the difference is minimal. I don't usually usually use files for cleaning mold lines though, I mainly only use them for actual converstions (like flattenning a surface after cutting a weapon off, that sort of thing). Nail buff sticks are something you can probably find locally as well, though I suspect they won't be as good for fine detail. As far as metal files go, any small metal file is probably fine. If you do decide to try these flexible sanding sticks or anything like that, let us know how they work out. I was thinking of buying regular sandpaper, just don't really have a clue where to find any. I'll ask around, you're probably right about the price. Do you think just a scalpel and 'paper is enough for cleaning up the lines? what I mainly need the extra tools for is cleaning up the are around the mold lines, and something that'll help me clean up those really hard to reach mold lines (like those running down the middle of the Troll axer/bouncer/impaler's face). Anything in particular you'd suggest for those?
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