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Post by Soul Samurai on Apr 3, 2019 15:31:40 GMT
I haven't really had issues with primer clogging detail, though I have had primer that paint didn't like to stick to. Perhaps you're laying it on too thickly so it's running into the detail? You shouldn't need to apply primer too heavily anyway, a thin coat is enough. What are you using? I like to clean my minis with warm water with a bit of dish soap (and of course leave them to fully dry) before priming, to get rid of any dirt and oil from manufacturing and handling, perhaps that could be a factor? Also consider airbrush primers as an option if you're having trouble getting a good aerosol primer.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Apr 3, 2019 16:33:29 GMT
I'm using Yaakovi primer, it's a local product. I'm guessing it's roughly equivalent to rust-oleom?
as I said, it's only really an issue with the gray primer. It flows a lot more than the other primers, hence why it ends up getting into and clogging the detail. I always wash my models thoroughly before I prime them, so that's definitely not a factor.
I'll probably get an airbrush eventually, but for now I want to get better at brush control before I start investing big money into fancy doodads.
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fanguad
Junior Strategist
Posts: 210
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Post by fanguad on Apr 3, 2019 18:41:13 GMT
If you are having a hard time finding good rattle-can primer, Vallejo and Reaper (and probably other brands) sell brush-on primer.
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mazog
Junior Strategist
Walking and talking
Posts: 748
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Post by mazog on Apr 5, 2019 2:57:50 GMT
But I would recommend avoiding gesso. That was recommended to me when I was reluctant to spray prime indoors in winter, but good Lord, I hate that stuff. Maybe I didn't shake it enough, maybe I was too inexperienced, but it ate the details and after I broke down and tried spray priming I stripped every model that had been gessoed and did them over.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Apr 7, 2019 17:42:58 GMT
Hey guys, I'm slowly working on my fennblades, but beyond that I unfortunately won't really have too much time to work on my minis for now. I've experimented a tiny bit with white paints, but it's not panning out too great. I'll try some more with throwaway minis before I commit to painting any more scyrah models. I'd like to paint all of my dawnguard models in the same style as imperatus - body in green, weapons in blue. tried bashing something together in PS real quick: granted, the picture isn't a perfect match by any means, but I think it could work pretty well. I'm also contemplating whether I should buy the scyrah command book; I own the introductory guide, which only covers some of the colors, and I can't find the recipes online, but the cheapest I can get the command book for is 40$, which seems like an incredibly steep price to pay for the privilege of knowing which pots of paint I should buy.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Apr 7, 2019 18:14:35 GMT
I reckon you can get by with youtube videos (tons of miniature painting stuff there) and asking specific questions on forums. These forums and PP's official ones are pretty slow these days, but there's other places for general painting advice, like DakkaDakka.
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Post by NoSuchMethod on Apr 8, 2019 14:36:08 GMT
the picture isn't a perfect match by any means, but I think it could work pretty well. I'm also contemplating whether I should buy the scyrah command book; I own the introductory guide, which only covers some of the colors, and I can't find the recipes online, but the cheapest I can get the command book for is 40$, which seems like an incredibly steep price to pay for the privilege of knowing which pots of paint I should buy. Lemme help you out. You'll probably end up buying the command book anyway at some point, but you shouldn't need it to get started. Plus it seems like they've reiterated these basic recipes in various articles and youtube videos. The paint recipes as given in the command book are as follows:
Retribution "Steel": Base - Radiant Platinum Shade - Turquoise Ink Highlight - Quick Silver
Warjack / Dawnguard Armor: Base - Retribution White Shade - 1:1 mix of Ret White and Greatcoat Grey Highlight - Morrow White
Runes / Glow - Arcantrik Green
Magehunter Green (Cloaks etc): Base: Magehunter Green Shade: Cryx Bane Base Highlight: Underbelly Blue
Magehunter Khaki Base: Battledress Green
Shade: Umbral Umber
Highlight: Rucksack Tan
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Apr 11, 2019 11:15:58 GMT
the picture isn't a perfect match by any means, but I think it could work pretty well. I'm also contemplating whether I should buy the scyrah command book; I own the introductory guide, which only covers some of the colors, and I can't find the recipes online, but the cheapest I can get the command book for is 40$, which seems like an incredibly steep price to pay for the privilege of knowing which pots of paint I should buy. Lemme help you out. You'll probably end up buying the command book anyway at some point, but you shouldn't need it to get started. Plus it seems like they've reiterated these basic recipes in various articles and youtube videos. The paint recipes as given in the command book are as follows:
Retribution "Steel": Base - Radiant Platinum Shade - Turquoise Ink Highlight - Quick Silver
Warjack / Dawnguard Armor: Base - Retribution White Shade - 1:1 mix of Ret White and Greatcoat Grey Highlight - Morrow White
Runes / Glow - Arcantrik Green
Magehunter Green (Cloaks etc): Base: Magehunter Green Shade: Cryx Bane Base Highlight: Underbelly Blue
Magehunter Khaki Base: Battledress Green
Shade: Umbral Umber
Highlight: Rucksack Tan
Thanks. When you say retribution white, do you mean the morrow white+underbelly blue mix? The introductory guide suggests using way more colors, but I'm guessing that's just a trick to get people to buy more product, or only relevant if you want to replicate the studio look perfectly. It was suggested in the guide to use some Cryx Bane Highlight for shading. I don't own any yet, so I don't know the exact color composition, but from sampling the shading on Hemera I can tell there's some yellow in the shading, so I think it's worth checking it out. I also own Menoth White Base, I'll test it for shading ret white when I get the chance as well. Do you know what colors they use for the dark bluish leather straps? a la the sleeves and pants on Spears of Scyrah, sleeves on Infiltrators, Garryth's skirt/pants etc.
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Post by NoSuchMethod on Apr 11, 2019 14:48:52 GMT
Thanks. When you say retribution white, do you mean the morrow white+underbelly blue mix? Not sure, I don't actually use that many P3 paints myself. The book calls it "Retribution White" so I assume it's an official color they make, or made previously.
Not sure what the blue leather is, it doesn't appear to match anything on the MHA example.
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Post by deathbymelancholy on Apr 26, 2019 16:04:33 GMT
Back of the Ret Codex (or whatever they are called) has the recipes for paint colours. Someone may have access to that
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on Apr 30, 2019 16:51:49 GMT
Hey all,
I just found out a shop that's not too far from my place sells vallejo's model color line. Haven't checked their shipping rates yet, but without calculating in shipping they'd cost me almost exactly half of what getting PP's colors from overseas would cost.
Would you guys recommend getting them? So far I've had a blast using PP's range, their level of pigmentation is really good and they're just thick enough for my taste. Coat d'arms fall a bit short, the color's not quite as strong and the paints feel more watery, which I'm less a fan of. I've experimented some more with the SC75 paints I got, and I really can't stand them - they're thick as oatmeal, but they have very weak pigmentation and the end results tend to look really ugly and chalky. How do the AV paints measure up to these?
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Post by NoSuchMethod on Apr 30, 2019 17:44:10 GMT
Vallejo is good quality; You just might have to do some legwork to find colors that match if you've already done half your army using P3.
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 1, 2019 4:58:59 GMT
I have started using some Vallejo colours recently. The only "issue" I've found is that their "Game Air" line is not suited for application with a brush (I've had no issues using it with an airbrush as intended), so I've had to pick up matching colours from the "Game Color" line for brush use - which is complicated slightly by the colours having different names in different lines (although I understand the reasons for this). Of course you can just run "Game Color" through an airbrush if you thin it, but I'm OK paying for convenience in this case.
Having said that I am used to thinning my paints; so it's really hard for me to say if Vallejo will be as thick as you seem to like? I have found that they tend to settle in the bottle and don't have an agitator included so shaking them doesn't seem to work that well; the first few times the paint came out REALLY thin and watery, so I had to open the bottle and add an agitator myself. After that the paint seemed to come out reasonably thick. I suppose if it's not thick enough for you, you can let the bottle sit for a while, then pour out some of the medium that will gather at the mouth, then add an agitator and shake properly?
Eh, at the end of the day all you can do is buy a couple of bottles to try them yourself. Bear in mind that even within a single paint line different colours can have different properties, so I guess there is no easy answer.
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fanguad
Junior Strategist
Posts: 210
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Post by fanguad on May 1, 2019 11:41:32 GMT
I have a few Vallejos in my collection. I like the Model Color line although tends to rub off a bit more easily than other paints. I am not a fan of the Game Color line, but that's mostly personal preference. It separates easily, is a bit thick and doesn't thin nicely. Model Air and Air Color are great, but you basically have to use them with an airbrush, they're so thin.
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shmeep
Junior Strategist
Posts: 742
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Post by shmeep on May 1, 2019 12:49:17 GMT
@soul - I know you're right, but it never truly registers in my mind.
Is the vallejo model color Gold 172 any good? I got coat d'arms' bright gold and it looks so tired just looking at it makes me age a decade. I've used SC75's aldebaran red for some of my skorne and it's a bit too yellow-leaning for my taste. Which paint would you recommend for a more pure (coca cola) red? And which would be best for a more bluish/cherry red for khador?
Chances are I'll just buy a couple of reds and see which fits best, but if possible I'd rather not go in blind like I did with S75.
As usual, thanks for the help.
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