|
|
Post by Charistoph on Feb 24, 2019 22:14:52 GMT
So, I've done some painting over time, but I'm not very good. I started with 40K Marines (a pretty good place to get one's basic brush work in), but I have started some things on my WarmaHordes side. Now, I have long stints between painting over the last 8 years, so I'm still not very good, but I can put color on okayish. Please note, the photos are taken on cell phones, and often have image modification to make it better looking on a phone. First, I had my Magnus the Traitor looking a little Dark, emulating the Sith of the Old Republic:  But he was too dark, so I made him a little green when I finished the Mk 3 Battlebox:  He had his trusty Renegade:  And a Talon, too, for the Mk 2 Battlebox:  Then I started on Skorne trying this scheme out, going almost reverse scheme:  I ended up selling him when I tried to go whole hog back in to Mercs. |
|
|
|
Post by Charistoph on Feb 24, 2019 22:19:04 GMT
But I haven't done much painting on my Mercs, and got some more Skorne due to several fire sales at a couple LGS. Recently, I painted this Savage as a test scheme:  I like it, so tried getting my Cetrati to match.  I think I need to mark out the trim in gold or bronze to get it to work properly. Maybe even trying to just go back over the ridges with the base color for the filigree to help them pop more.
I've also got a bit of a side project going as well. I was just hired to be a resource teacher aide, and I am finagling a short version of WarmaHorde rules to give them a game that requires a bit of math to process. I managed to get a Neraph for about $8 from the LGS clearance sale, and I'm going to use that (as soon as I paint it) along with some little green army men as a creature hunt game with this as one of the creatures. As soon as I can get the will up to paint it, I'll post the results here.
|
|
mazog
Junior Strategist
Walking and talking
Posts: 748
|
Post by mazog on Feb 25, 2019 4:21:52 GMT
There's the trophy hunt from the northkin No Quarter and CoI for inspiration. What grade level are you at? Oh, and the brute is tremendously better than the Titan, you must have grown a lot in the meantime. I much prefer the yellow accent to the vast swathes of yellow.
|
|
|
|
Post by Charistoph on Feb 25, 2019 5:26:29 GMT
I don't think I've grown much, I've just managed to get a wet pallet and the Titan was painted with GW and P3, while the Savage's main color is Army Painter which forces more layering to get good coverage. Sadly, some of my paints are really old (the "black" on the Savage and Cetrati is the same P3 paint pot as the skin of the Titan, just much older).
It would be about 5th-8th grade I'm looking at. I will be using most of the stats, but doing a lot simplifying like dropping the special rules, Boosting, Charging, stuff like that. Stats will be largely ranged trooper for the guys, but I'm bumping their damage/health/Wounds up to 10-15, and I won't be using the life spirals for the Beasts, just a basic damage grid roughly the same size of the current model in Hordes. It's being stripped down because they only have about 30 minutes to play once a week, so I don't want to get really bogged down with unnecessary details. When I get the new card page set up, I'll provide a link for perusal.
|
|
|
|
Post by Trollock on Feb 25, 2019 10:34:35 GMT
I think you should try "dipping". Your models could benefit from more contrast and that is the fastest way to do it. Or you could do like i do and just slather on wash with a brush. I wrote a tutorial on the subject and will try to find it.
|
|
|
|
Post by Trollock on Feb 25, 2019 10:37:40 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Charistoph on Feb 25, 2019 14:01:40 GMT
I think you should try "dipping". Your models could benefit from more contrast and that is the fastest way to do it. Or you could do like i do and just slather on wash with a brush. I wrote a tutorial on the subject and will try to find it. I did wash them...  It may be hard to tell on the Cetrati shoulder pads because of my limited picture formats requiring a flash. You can see the affects on the folds of the Cetrati's leg armor. It may not have been a very good application on the shoulder pads and shields, though, which is why it requires either highlighting or putting metal on the fillagree. |
|
|
|
Post by Trollock on Feb 25, 2019 18:16:17 GMT
I think you should try "dipping". Your models could benefit from more contrast and that is the fastest way to do it. Or you could do like i do and just slather on wash with a brush. I wrote a tutorial on the subject and will try to find it. I did wash them... It may be hard to tell on the Cetrati shoulder pads because of my limited picture formats requiring a flash. You can see the affects on the folds of the Cetrati's leg armor. It may not have been a very good application on the shoulder pads and shields, though, which is why it requires either highlighting or putting metal on the fillagree. Im one of those guys who want extreme contrast on my models. To each his own of course, but i personally think the models would look even better with more contrast. My solution tends to be to bring out a BIG brush and slather on wash 😝 |
|
|
|
Post by Soul Samurai on Feb 25, 2019 19:27:14 GMT
Yeah, I put a lot more contrast in my models now than I used to and I think it works.
BTW Charistoph, a Quickshade "dip" is not the same as a wash: it tends to shade more but have less effect on the raised areas and colours overall. It really is quite good for shading organic areas like skin and cloth, though it takes a bit of practice to apply it without pooling or streaking. I do suggest giving it a try; I certainly don't use it everywhere but I do like it for some things.
|
|
eathotlead
Junior Strategist
PP forumite since 2004
Posts: 259 
|
Post by eathotlead on Mar 12, 2019 21:38:51 GMT
Not saying this is you, Charistoph, but it might be helpful: For years I felt like I was highlighting, washing, and dark-lining (separating parts) quite sufficiently. (I mostly just black-washed a few parts.) I told myself that less contrast and lining were "more realistic" and I didn't want to screw up my work. Then I tried to embrace the whole "paint like you got a pair" and pushed all of the above to a much greater degree. It was uncomfortable but I think I'm better for it. Maybe give it a go.
PS I can definitely see areas of washing on your stuff, and it does help for the most part. I just also think you could up your game even more, without spending dozens more hours.
PPS I'm also looking forward to seeing the creature hunt game models you mentioned.
|
|
|
|
Post by Charistoph on Dec 7, 2019 5:11:12 GMT
So a while back, I got my kids some models of their choice, and let them paint them up. I don't have pictures of all of them yet (and they are being rather chaotic), but I did get some of mine painted up at the same time, as well as repainting some of them. Metal Nomad 
Plastic Nomad
Repainted Renegade
Repainted Talon
|
|
|
|
Post by Charistoph on Dec 7, 2019 5:17:02 GMT
There's a Who's the Boss being setup tomorrow, and I've volunteered some of my Battlebox models, shanghaiing my daughter's Tanith in to the mix. So, I just had to get them painted up and refine my daughter's model a bit. Malekus the Burning Truth Beast Master Xekaar, aka Whippy Boy
My daughter's Tanith the Feral Song |
|
|
|
Post by Soul Samurai on Dec 9, 2019 8:18:30 GMT
I actually really like that Malekus, the fullmetal colour scheme is cool.
|
|
|
|
Post by Charistoph on Dec 13, 2019 16:10:34 GMT
I actually really like that Malekus, the fullmetal colour scheme is cool. Thank You. I really couldn't feel how putting non-metallics on him would work considering he's so heavily armored (seriously, dude should be as slow as a Dwarf in all that rig).
Ironically, none of my models were used in the event because there were so many options to pick from (even added my Crosse2 and MacBain to the list), and only 4 people ended up playing. There was another tournament going on, and I had a headache that got worse just thinking about how to strategize.
It was well managed, just not well timed, and a lot of the tournament players showed interest in it (even playing after their tournament games were done). Might have worked better as a Start of the Year event rather than an End of Year event along with a special "Best of the Best" tournament at the same time.
He brought in some Alternate History cards so models like Bethayne could play without too much issue, and used the poker cards to apply the random factor to it.
|
|
It may be hard to tell on the Cetrati shoulder pads because of my limited picture formats requiring a flash. You can see the affects on the folds of the Cetrati's leg armor. It may not have been a very good application on the shoulder pads and shields, though, which is why it requires either highlighting or putting metal on the fillagree.
