mazog
Junior Strategist
Walking and talking
Posts: 748
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Post by mazog on Jan 26, 2019 17:08:46 GMT
I play trolls but I think that Jussika Bloodtongue is too cool a model for Cryx, so I bought one too convert to be the leader of my second unit of raiders. I had saved back a sword arm to help with the conversion and cut some possible bombs from other bits since I could not break off any of the bomb arms when I tried.
Here is the thing, though. She is tiny compared to the raiders. If I put that arm on her she is going to look like Hellboy! This is my first serious conversion and my green stuff skills are not by any means up to the job. Does anyone have recommendations for how I can make this work?
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Post by fallenexile on Jan 26, 2019 20:22:03 GMT
How much of a mismatch would it be to swap out just the hand from the wrist down?
If that won't do, sculpting a new hand/bomb may be the way to go.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jan 27, 2019 5:47:00 GMT
How much of a mismatch would it be to swap out just the hand from the wrist down? If that won't do, sculpting a new hand/bomb may be the way to go. That's a good idea; plus if the hand is too big you can paint it in steel to look like a gauntlet (maybe sculpt a bit of extra armour on the wrist/forearm if needed to make it look like it belongs). How about, instead of replacing the hand, you replace the weapon in the hand with a sling that has a bomb in it? Or an old fashioned stick grenade (like the old German "potato masher")?
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mazog
Junior Strategist
Walking and talking
Posts: 748
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Post by mazog on Jan 28, 2019 0:14:47 GMT
I was planning the stick grenade for the bomb, just keeping the bottom of the left hand weapon and pinning a bomb to the top of her hand. The gauntlet idea is interesting, I will look again at the hand and maybe even try to post a picture.
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mazog
Junior Strategist
Walking and talking
Posts: 748
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Post by mazog on Jan 31, 2019 2:15:25 GMT
The hand was far too clearly a hand so I just cut the sword off it and, when I get my really tiny drill bits I just ordered, will pin it on her hand. I wasn't able to get the guard when I used my flush cutters to get it off, sadly. I may spend some time trying to make one with greenstuff. I have settled on the stick grenade idea, do now all I have to do is wait for my shipment to arrive!
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jan 31, 2019 4:30:25 GMT
Great, please post photos of the final conversion! WIP photos are cool too if you remember to take them.
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Post by NoSuchMethod on Apr 9, 2019 13:56:42 GMT
Did you ever get this build finished by any chance? Really curious to see how it turned out. The "trollblood hand size mismatch problem" is something I've become pretty well acquainted with myself over the last couple years.
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mazog
Junior Strategist
Walking and talking
Posts: 748
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Post by mazog on Apr 13, 2019 20:25:05 GMT
I have the pieces cut but then I got an airbrush and that has sucked up and blown out all of my hobby time. I can let the pieces or and take a picture next week so you can see the idea, though. I am pretty nervous about drilling and pinning the sword blade in particular.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Apr 14, 2019 13:10:48 GMT
I am pretty nervous about drilling and pinning the sword blade in particular. The safest way I've found to drill a hole in something small like a blade is to support it by applying pressure so that it doesn't bulge. For example, to drill into a flat-sided sword blade you can grip the blade in a vice or pair of smooth flat pliers. This will help prevent the sides from bulging out.
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Post by NoSuchMethod on Apr 15, 2019 13:24:36 GMT
I am pretty nervous about drilling and pinning the sword blade in particular. The safest way I've found to drill a hole in something small like a blade is to support it by applying pressure so that it doesn't bulge. For example, to drill into a flat-sided sword blade you can grip the blade in a vice or pair of smooth flat pliers. This will help prevent the sides from bulging out. I can verify that method works for plastic and metal, but I'm not sure how resin will hold up. It might just pulverize.
Another method I've used for blades is to just cut a notch, glue the pin in there, and then come back and repair the surface with greenstuff. I find myself doing that a lot for plasticard blades, for instance, where I'm often using a card thickness equal-to or only slightly thicker than the supporting rod.
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