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Post by apoc2148 on May 16, 2018 18:00:46 GMT
Pretty much the title. I'm building some converted gator models and I would like to do a resin water effect but some of it will have to be free standing. The photo above shows the starting phases of the models that I want to add the water-resin effect to. For the Calaban model I want to have the resin-water up to the bottom of the nose of the blindwalker to make it look like it is rising out of a swamp with Calaban on its back. The cork will be sealed with a latex primer before I do any resin work on it and the models will be painted separately and then secured on the base either before or after the resin is poured, not really sure the order in which to do that yet. The swamp siren I am going to do the same priming for the cork and painting it before pouring the resin. My question is what material/method should I use to make sure the resin stays where I want it and not flow out everywhere. I have no experience using resin on models so I'm really shooting in the dark at this point. Some initial ideas I had (after speaking to another gamer who makes lots of terrain) is to find a plastic tube that just fits over the flat on the bases (so a 38 mm tube for the 40 mm base and 48 mm tube for the 50 mm base) seal the crack where the tube meets the base with something that will release easily (silicone or drywall joint compound), then pour the resin up to where I want it with the desired colors mixed in. Does anyone have some knowledge about working with poured resin and minis that would care to shed some light on the subject?
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 16, 2018 18:52:21 GMT
They look very promising! I have't done this sort of thing myself, but I'm sure I've seen several tutorials in the past, have you searched google and youtube?
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Post by apoc2148 on May 16, 2018 19:10:28 GMT
They look very promising! I have't done this sort of thing myself, but I'm sure I've seen several tutorials in the past, have you searched google and youtube? I've done some quick google searching and found the products that I think will work well. The water, tint, and base coat is from Woodland Scenic. Most of the tutorials I've read (can't watch the youtube ones at work easily) seem to use this stuff. Might have to just get some and do some trial and error.
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 16, 2018 19:49:37 GMT
I used Woodland Scenics Realistic Water for a simple swamp base once. I found it would shrink much more than I expected, and mixing any kind of liquid paint (even their own tint) in just exaggerated the effect because of the volume lost by the evaporation of the paint; it took me a while to figure out how to get the effect I wanted. I think that for anything deep you need to use two-part resins rather than the simple "pour and dry" water products.
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Post by apoc2148 on May 16, 2018 20:19:40 GMT
I used Woodland Scenics Realistic Water for a simple swamp base once. I found it would shrink much more than I expected, and mixing any kind of liquid paint (even their own tint) in just exaggerated the effect because of the volume lost by the evaporation of the paint; it took me a while to figure out how to get the effect I wanted. I think that for anything deep you need to use two-part resins rather than the simple "pour and dry" water products. Whelp, I just ordered the realistic water stuff, so I guess we'll see how it goes. Also ordered some of the two part epoxy resin as well.
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 16, 2018 20:25:53 GMT
You have to pour it in fairly thin layers. If you're planning to build up quite high with it, that might take a while.
BTW my GW water effects were no better; I think it's just the nature of this kind of resin. Meanwhile two-part resins can get bubbles stuck in them from mixing, so, you know, advantages and disadvantages.
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Post by supercancel on May 17, 2018 14:15:52 GMT
At least in a swamp, bubbles wouldn't be amiss...
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mazog
Junior Strategist
Walking and talking
Posts: 748
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Post by mazog on Jun 13, 2018 15:39:54 GMT
Please post when you get it done, I am interested in the role. After seeing Wrong Eye submerge while standing on a bridge, I was tempted to try and make a great bubble of water effect to represent submerge for Snapjaw & Wrongeye, but never came up with a way to do it.
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Post by scarecrow on Jun 19, 2018 14:21:16 GMT
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Post by Aegis on Jun 25, 2018 5:11:59 GMT
I know that for some kinds of free standing effects, people use pieces of clear plastic as base (like pieces of plastic forks or pieces of plastic bottles), and then covers them with layers of things like "realistic water" to make them look watery or icy. An example: A tutorial of the technique used: fantasygames.com.pl/how-to-make-splashing-water/
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jun 25, 2018 7:39:40 GMT
Oh, I love it! And it works so well with the pose!
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Post by apoc2148 on Jun 25, 2018 11:49:21 GMT
I know that for some kinds of free standing effects, people use pieces of clear plastic as base (like pieces of plastic forks or pieces of plastic bottles), and then covers them with layers of things like "realistic water" to make them look watery or icy. A tutorial of the technique used: fantasygames.com.pl/how-to-make-splashing-water/That turned out really cool! I'll have to keep that idea in mind for later projects.
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Post by tapecrawler on Jun 29, 2018 1:12:09 GMT
The carbon dioxide in your breath will pull the bubbles in the envirotex resin to the surface and cause them to pop. It’s really cool to breathe on the surface and watch bubbles rise out of the bottom. I was trying to find a video tutorial about working with two part resin. It’s really the only way to go when you’re planning on making stuff bigger than small puddles on the base. I couldn’t find a good one without more digging than time available allowed. There are two main ways I’ve seen them to create a dam to keep the resin contained. One is with tape and that works fairly well if it’s a straight line. But for the effect you are trying to achieve there is a clay for molds that would give the best results. Unfortunately it’s a particular type of clay that won’t contaminate the resin and I can’t remember what it is. I haven’t worked with it, when I’ve done resin work it’s always been completely contained by the surrounding structure.
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Post by apoc2148 on Jun 29, 2018 11:55:55 GMT
The carbon dioxide in your breath will pull the bubbles in the envirotex resin to the surface and cause them to pop. It’s really cool to breathe on the surface and watch bubbles rise out of the bottom. I was trying to find a video tutorial about working with two part resin. It’s really the only way to go when you’re planning on making stuff bigger than small puddles on the base. I couldn’t find a good one without more digging than time available allowed. There are two main ways I’ve seen them to create a dam to keep the resin contained. One is with tape and that works fairly well if it’s a straight line. But for the effect you are trying to achieve there is a clay for molds that would give the best results. Unfortunately it’s a particular type of clay that won’t contaminate the resin and I can’t remember what it is. I haven’t worked with it, when I’ve done resin work it’s always been completely contained by the surrounding structure. I was kinda planning on making some sort of dam to contain the two part mixture. Tape was an initial idea, silicone was another one cause it should peel off of the base nicely as long as I don't get it into the cork, or some combination of the two. Use the silicone to seal the joint where the tape meets the base and hope the tape is stiff enough. I figured I could let it cure until the point where it would be able to stand by itself and then cut it to the shape I need.
Still haven't gotten a chance to play with the stuff. I have a tournament in Sept that I'm hoping to take these models to so I need to make some time to get working on these.
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Post by tapecrawler on Jun 29, 2018 13:42:36 GMT
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