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Post by Soul Samurai on Dec 13, 2018 18:44:45 GMT
Hey, it's MewMew! All and all, it looks a lot better than many other 3D printer jobs I've seen, and those required less detail. That was absolutely the inspiration. I could have just used one of the existing MeowMeow models available online, but I didn't want an exact copy; basically I wanted some more traditional Celtic knotwork than the slightly more random looking decoration on Mjolnir models I've seen (which I also didn't think would translate as well to small scale).
The reason why it looks better is because it was printed with an Anycubic Photon resin printer, which has much higher print resolutions than standard plastic FDM printers. It's also kind of a pain to use because resin is toxic (and gives off toxic fumes) until cured and you have to wash everything in alcohol and stuff. Plus FDM printers are better for larger objects (eg terrain); overall having both is useful for this hobby (and of course others).
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Post by Charistoph on Dec 13, 2018 23:15:42 GMT
Funny to put Celtic scrollwork on a Nordic legend hammer for a faux-Russian steam robot.
It's not just the resolution, I've seen some where you could see each layer of printing on the model, and it required some heavy filing to make it presentable.
Sorry to hear it's toxic. Hope for your health all your precautions were successful!
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Post by NephMakes on Dec 14, 2018 2:51:50 GMT
Huh. I think I have something like this kicking around in the deep forgotten recesses of my bits box, alongside old Battletech models and pieces of 1980s Star Wars action figures. Robotech would definitely fit, too.
Also: that 3D-printed jack bit is hawt. I bet you can make some cool translucent "ghostly" bits with that.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Dec 14, 2018 11:53:35 GMT
Funny to put Celtic scrollwork on a Nordic legend hammer for a faux-Russian steam robot. It's not just the resolution, I've seen some where you could see each layer of printing on the model, and it required some heavy filing to make it presentable. Sorry to hear it's toxic. Hope for your health all your precautions were successful! I should have been clearer: it's both layer height and resolution.
Most FDM printers print layer heights down to around 0.05 mm; smaller the layer height the less coarse the layer lines are. They also usually use a 0.4mm nozzle by default; in theory it's possible to print with smaller nozzles (down to around 0.1mm at best), but it turns out this is very tricky. I've never managed to print with a nozzle smaller than 0.4mm.
I believe the Anycubic Photon can print layers as fine as 0.01mm (although that leads to very long print times). Additionally, I think that the way resin printers use light to cure resin leads to generally smoother layers, but I'm not too sure about that. Also, it supposedly has a resolution of 0.047mm.
I try to follow all the recommended precautions when using the printer, hopefully that should be enough. It's a bit of a hassle is all.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Dec 14, 2018 11:55:05 GMT
Also: that 3D-printed jack bit is hawt. I bet you can make some cool translucent "ghostly" bits with that. That's something I want to experiment with; there are "clear" resins available as well as the coloured translucent ones, hopefully I'll get a chance to try them at some point.
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Post by tapecrawler on Dec 15, 2018 23:17:32 GMT
It will be really cool if you can figure out how to incorporate your led lighting into clear and translucent resin! The hammer is really cool but I can’t really tell scale. Would it be possible/feasible to cut the line breaks in the knot work with an Xacto blade?
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Post by Soul Samurai on Dec 16, 2018 6:20:50 GMT
It will be really cool if you can figure out how to incorporate your led lighting into clear and translucent resin! The hammer is really cool but I can’t really tell scale. Would it be possible/feasible to cut the line breaks in the knot work with an Xacto blade? Thanks! It's a warjack scale weapon; I'll try to post some photos that give a better sense of scale later. I'm planning on trying to print stuff that I can light up eventually, I'm just not there yet. That's a good idea about touching up the details with an exacto blade, I'll look into it. If that doesn't work then I can probably just accentuate the details during the painting stage.
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Post by tapecrawler on Dec 16, 2018 6:49:31 GMT
I would actually try using the back of the blade to scrape the material away instead of cutting it. Cutting could produce too fine a cut that will fill up with paint. I’m not describing it well, it’s like cutting with the back of the blade so that it removes a little bit of material instead of slicing it and leaving all of the material there.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Dec 16, 2018 7:47:11 GMT
I would actually try using the back of the blade to scrape the material away instead of cutting it. Cutting could produce too fine a cut that will fill up with paint. I’m not describing it well, it’s like cutting with the back of the blade so that it removes a little bit of material instead of slicing it and leaving all of the material there. I get what you're saying. I do the exact same thing when I use a compass cutter to cut circles in plasticard; spinning it backwards carves the plastic away with the back of the blade.
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Post by tapecrawler on Dec 16, 2018 8:45:50 GMT
Cool, I was afraid that I was doing a poor job of describing the technique.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jan 1, 2019 8:35:52 GMT
I've been trying to print a specific conversion part for weeks now, and it just keeps failing to print. Other bits are printing successfully, but this one piece - that printed properly before but had to be tweaked - just isn't printing. It's getting frustrating. The problem is it's for the model I've been focusing on and wanted to finish and get painted so I could actually play with it. Sigh.
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Post by tapecrawler on Jan 14, 2019 4:38:34 GMT
I wish there was some advice I could give you that would help but I don’t know anything about 3D printing.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jan 14, 2019 7:28:13 GMT
I wish there was some advice I could give you that would help but I don’t know anything about 3D printing. I appreciate that. I eventually got it to print, managed to complete the conversion (it's not quite as good as I'd hoped it would be, but it's good enough I guess) and I've started the painting process... at which point I ran into problems with my airbrush. Sigh. Well, I was thinking about posting photos but I've decided to wait until it's painted since I plan on actually getting this model painted up. You know, for the novelty of actually having something painted for a change. I have some other printed bits to post photos of, but I'm waiting until I've glued the bits together and filled the gaps etc.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jan 14, 2019 16:40:18 GMT
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jan 14, 2019 16:42:43 GMT
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