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Post by Soul Samurai on Sept 14, 2020 19:38:49 GMT
Question is, if you are going to add a third color? Good question. I normally go for one or two main colours (not counting smaller details in colours such as steel, brass, white etc). I'm always worried that a third distinct major colour would look too chaotic. I do not know if pure metal armour works for them. Then again it's metal minis, just try and then detain if it does not look good! Yeah, aesthetically they seem to want to be wearing muted colours that can potentially blend in to their surroundings, so perhaps they're just not the right army for this. I've just been itching to try painting copper, but I'm just not sure if it's right for any of the stuff on my painting queue. The only other models I have my eye on right now that might look good in copper are my Morrowans (Precursors and Gallant), but I really like the official colour scheme for Precursors and I have other plans for Gallant. Oh well.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Sept 20, 2020 15:58:01 GMT
Blue and orange eh? I am intrigued, I look forwards to seeing how they turn out. I've applied zenithal shading (or is it zenithal highlighting?) using dark to light metallics, my plan was to airbrush purple ink over three of the models and metallic purple over one to serve as the elite and allow me to see the difference between the two techniques. The inner areas (joints etc) would be masked off and left in steel/silver, and the heads would get some gold details. I found the proper masking fluid hard to apply into the recesses of these relatively small models, so I was thinking of trying plain watered down PVA (possibly applying several thin coats to build it up). PVA can be dissolved in warm water so I should be able to remove it afterwards without pulling off the underlying paint. I suppose I could put down a varnish coat first, but I'm thinking that will be a "plan B" if this doesn't work. So it didn't work. The thinned down PVA really didn't want to come off, and my attempts to remove it just ended up stripping bits of the model down to the bare metal. I did find that the glazes actually looked better than the coloured metallic paint (more saturated while still looking metallic), so I guess I need to strip the paint and try again, but apply the glaze by hand this time. In the past I've found it hard to get smooth glazes by hand for this kind of effect, but c'est la vie I guess. I might shelve them until after my Marcher Worlds though. Whenever that is.
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