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Post by overread on May 5, 2018 21:49:45 GMT
Title says it all - she's certainly one of the more challenging models in the range. Her wings are my biggest concern because of how thin her body is and how thing the wing joint is. Doesn't leave all that much room to attempt pinning, so I'm wondering if any here have any tips or know of any good articles when assembling her to get a good solid result
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 7, 2018 5:16:03 GMT
Have you ever tried pinning using 0.6mm diameter tailor pins? I've pinned quite small objects in the past, such as sword blades. There's also 0.8mm pins (and probably others) that are stronger, which I use for pretty much everything other than the very thinnest joints.
Pick up a set of good 0.6mm drill bits (seriously, when you're working at this scale there is a WORLD of difference between cheap drill bits and good ones) and some small glass-headed tailor pins. You'll find that the steel on some pins is quite hard, making them tough to cut to length. I use a set of small bolt cutters - be very careful as bits of pins can occasionally fly off; it's probably best to wear safety goggles (I've had some very close shaves myself!). After cutting a pin it will be deformed around the cut; you'll want to smooth it with a metal file or else it won't fit in a hole of the correct size.
Always use a pin to create a depression in the correct spot before trying to drill, because the drill itself will move around and cut into the wrong place otherwise. I recommend holding pins in a pin vice while working with (or on) them (such as when smoothing the cut end with a file); it stops them from moving around and slipping out of your hands. Also, cut off the glass pin head and dispose of it; if you're not careful it can get crushed and glass dust is harmful.
When drilling into really thing pieces, go slowly. Keep backing out the drill piece and clearing off the cut material. If it's possible to reinforce the piece that can help; otherwise the sides get pushed out where it's thin rather than it getting cut into - for example I hold blades tightly in a pair of flat, smooth jawed pliers while drilling.
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Post by overread on May 7, 2018 8:04:16 GMT
That's an interesting idea and possibly what some others have used for pinning tiny parts. Out of interest got any recommendations for how to tell good from average drill bits or any drill bit companies you'd recommend? I normally get stuff like this off ebay though it can be fairly hit and miss on quality (drill bits I've never had bad luck with though I've picked up one or two files that were fairly priced and yet were low grade)
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 7, 2018 8:27:29 GMT
That's an interesting idea and possibly what some others have used for pinning tiny parts. Out of interest got any recommendations for how to tell good from average drill bits or any drill bit companies you'd recommend? I normally get stuff like this off ebay though it can be fairly hit and miss on quality (drill bits I've never had bad luck with though I've picked up one or two files that were fairly priced and yet were low grade) Sadly I don't know how to guarantee quality. When I want a high quality part I look for something that ships from America or Europe, that's about all I got. You can do it with lower quality bits, you'll just end up spending FAR longer on it. |
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Post by overread on May 7, 2018 8:49:32 GMT
No worries thanks for the help.
Though this did make me remember that PP used to do brass rods and drill bit sets and did make a 0.5mm. However a quick check and it seems that they've discontinued almost all their old tools under p3 and now only do paints?
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Post by Soul Samurai on May 7, 2018 9:01:16 GMT
No worries thanks for the help. Though this did make me remember that PP used to do brass rods and drill bit sets and did make a 0.5mm. However a quick check and it seems that they've discontinued almost all their old tools under p3 and now only do paints? I have the old brass rodding kit. The 0.5mm brass rods were VERY soft and bendy, and the drill bits were crap. I didn't know that they were discontinued, but that's no great loss. |
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Post by NephMakes on May 8, 2018 21:22:25 GMT
I have the old brass rodding kit. The 0.5mm brass rods were VERY soft and bendy Brass will usually be pretty bendy. It's a feature, not a bug. I use brass when I want something I can bend. Like, reposing a leg. I pin it and leave some space where the join would be, fine tune the pose by bending the rod, then fill and sculpt the missing part with with putty. If I don't want bendy, I'll use something cheaper and stiffer like paperclips or sewing needles. Most of the time you just want the pin for shear stress. Your glue and gap filler will do most of the work for bend stress. For twist stress, a double pin works really well. |
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