iggie
Demo Gamer
Posts: 11
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Post by iggie on Nov 12, 2017 12:53:06 GMT
Hello everyone, first post here, so my apologizes if this has been covered before. I did a quick search for 'Glue' but found nothing. Anyways, i have been putting miniatures together for about 2 years, though i usually did hard plastic/fine cast. Now i have recently switched gears over to PP, where i am discovering most models are metal. i am having a VERY tough time finding the proper glue to use on these wickedly awesome metal minis. I did try some zap-a-gap, that worked fantastically, however i believe i attached the nozzle improperly as it broke off on my third use =( Also, i had to order that from amazon. Just curious if there is any glue that works great on metal minis that i can find at a local shop or store, what do you all use?
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spideredd
Junior Strategist
Summer Gamer
Posts: 588
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Post by spideredd on Nov 12, 2017 15:31:33 GMT
Cyanoacrylate. Glues metal to metal, plastic to metal, plastic to plastic and flesh to anything.
It's usually quite cheap. I can pick up three or four packs for about a quid at a variety store. It's also abundant, though the stuff you can find in a supermarket tends to be branded and therefore expensive.
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Post by shonkhor on Nov 13, 2017 16:24:20 GMT
+1 any old cyanoacrylate (aka superglue). I've never found one that works better than another. To get a strong fit between metal components, especially when they are heavy or the contact area is small, you will need to pin them. Also washing the minis in soapy water prior to assembly helps clean off casting residue and improve the strength of the bond. I use green stuff to fill in the gaps after the glue had cured.
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Post by scarecrow on Nov 13, 2017 17:15:23 GMT
I've always used Loctite superglue gel. It's around $4 a bottle, super easy to apply, stays where you put it, and holds all of my models together without pinning.
That said, I borrowed some Gorilla Glue superglue once to assemble some Grenadiers quickly for a tournament and I actually was worried I would break the model when trying to remove the arms for reposing and just stopped trying. So that's good for the single time I've used it, but extremely permanent.
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rantmo
Baby's First Wargame
Posts: 8
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Post by rantmo on Nov 14, 2017 4:03:44 GMT
I've always used Loctite superglue gel. It's around $4 a bottle, super easy to apply, stays where you put it, and holds all of my models together without pinning. That said, I borrowed some Gorilla Glue superglue once to assemble some Grenadiers quickly for a tournament and I actually was worried I would break the model when trying to remove the arms for reposing and just stopped trying. So that's good for the single time I've used it, but extremely permanent. I started my PP career with Gorilla Glue but then I discovered Loctite and I ain't ever going back. It's cheap, it's strong as all get out and I can buy it at Walgreens. I still need to pin metals from time-to-time, but as long as I can get a good connection with it, it lives up to its name.
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Post by Fudly on Nov 18, 2017 17:51:31 GMT
I bought loctite "professional" superglue, and when I glue metal bits, they'll generally hold after 10 seconds.
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Post by aniron on Nov 21, 2017 20:36:10 GMT
I've found that using a brush-on cyanoacrylate "super glue" helps a lot with getting the right amount of it on there (which is as little as possible that will still thinly coat the area of contact). I'll also use 2-component epoxy very sparingly, when all else fails.
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Munindk
Junior Strategist
Posts: 210
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Post by Munindk on Nov 22, 2017 10:57:26 GMT
I prefer Loctite Gel. I've tried the brush on version of Loctite and it still seems to run all over the place (model, fingers, table...), the gel is easy to work with.
I've found that pinning is often necessary with PPs models. I pin almost all metal components and most of the larger plastic ones.
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Haight
Junior Strategist
Posts: 396
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Post by Haight on Nov 24, 2017 20:34:21 GMT
As no one has suggested it yet, i really like Krazy Glue brand squeeze applicator (don't use the brush on stuff from this brand, its a different formula and much less powerful).
It has a nice viscosity that makes applying the right amount very easy and the storage bottle it comes with prevents any messes, etc. It's also very reasonably priced. In my area its available in all craft stores, but also Target and office supply stores (great for when you run out in the middle of a project and need to get more quickly to finish up).
That said, i'll echo Munindk ; sometimes there is no escaping pinning models.
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Post by W0lfBane on Nov 30, 2017 17:20:50 GMT
Wash your models with warm soapy water. It really helps. Even the shittiest glue will hold after that.
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mazog
Junior Strategist
Walking and talking
Posts: 748
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Post by mazog on Dec 3, 2017 4:45:07 GMT
The best advice I have is to be aware of the setting time. The first glue I bought was slow setting because I thought I'd want time to get the join right. Huge mistake. It took far longer to set than I had patience for, and I grew to hate assembly. Then a friend introduced me to the quick-setting superglue, and I'm a happy camper now. You can even put the join together, then add glue around the sides and it'll wick right in, and it is so thin it doesn't mess up the lines on the model, to my eye. Oh, and the runny stuff seems to hold together better than the gel I used before.
That said, I may have to investigate this Loctite stuff, it sounds nice.
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Post by cascadiankovnik on Dec 10, 2017 0:28:43 GMT
PP also uses 'hard plastic' or polystyrene plastic for a small number of jack kits, most new colossals, etc. For these nothing beats plastic cement. It doesn't glue anything but that type of plastic (no sticky fingers) and actually melts the plastic together making a very strong bond. Unfortunately that also means it does nothing for PP's usual resin/restic or metal models.
Testor's is generally what I use. Specifically 'Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models'; it has a thin metal nozzle that makes getting just the right amount in the right place easy. And because it's metal it doesn't interact with the glue and get clogged up the way superglue nozzles will.
-edit- Also, it does take a little time to set. I'll generally use rubber bands or binder clips while it's curing, or use a dab of superglue in a corner just to tack it in place for the 10 minutes or so needed.
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Haight
Junior Strategist
Posts: 396
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Post by Haight on Dec 11, 2017 1:07:06 GMT
The Krazy glue stuff i mentioned, i like it for another reason: it has a VERY fast set time on just about all materials (assuming they are clean).
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Post by HubertJFarnsworth on Dec 12, 2017 14:25:35 GMT
I used the Gale Force 9 glue for years, then stopped because everyone said Zap a Gap was great, then this summer every single Ret command book release that I built with Zap a Gap broke multiple times so I'm back to GF9. Still have Mage Hunter Assassins I built in 2012 with GF9 that have never needed repairs.
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Post by april on Dec 16, 2017 9:15:53 GMT
+1 any old cyanoacrylate (aka superglue). I've never found one that works better than another. To get a strong fit between metal components, especially when they are heavy or the contact area is small, you will need to pin them. Also washing the minis in soapy water prior to assembly helps clean off casting residue and improve the strength of the bond. I use green stuff to fill in the gaps after the glue had cured. There is an industrial grade superglue you can get which is slightly better than most cheap types. But you probably are better if you pin stuff too
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