Cyel
Junior Strategist
Posts: 685
|
Post by Cyel on Apr 6, 2017 13:35:43 GMT
I am not that good at coloring between the lines and sometimes make a mess around the feet, I drybrush bases, and it just ends up with a bad paint job at the foot area. That's why my advice would be to complete basing BEFORE you undercoat your model. Glue sand and stones and spray the model then start painting. I almost always start with drybrushing of the base exactly for the reason you give - as the most messy step I want it first not to get it over things I have already painted. I paint the base alongside the model and only add static grass later. During painting I just hold the base.
|
|
|
Post by W0lfBane on Apr 6, 2017 18:50:34 GMT
This may be a bit complicated so pay attention. I assemble the miniature nodding it as necessary. I glue it to the base and hold the base like the Barbarian bastard that i am. If i need to paint the underside i hold the model and paint where i need. Then i repaint any smudges i may have caused. I base my mini after it has been painted. There is no room in valhalla for fancy painting.
Ps: i also feel like any areas that are hard to get to such as armpits should be dark and have shadows there so it really doesn't bug me that i can't get to them. Just let the wash/ink/shade do as it wishes in those areas
|
|
|
Post by tesoe on Jun 8, 2017 15:31:49 GMT
So I'm going to never this, and for Tha t I'm sorry.
If you've seen any of the recent painting videos by PP then you might have noticed Dallas has a cool stand for his minis. He answered a couple of our questions about what the heck it is over on the PP forum.
He has a desktop microphone stand with a weighted base he uses. He sticks a big glob of putty to the top and then sticks a paint can lid over it. He double sided tapes the mini to the old spray can lid. The putty allows him to adjust the angle of the lid without it hanging completely loose.
He recommended checking eBay for generic microphone stands and sure enough I found what looks like the one he uses almost immediately, for cheap too.
|
|
gmonkey
Junior Strategist
I, for one, welcome our Infernal Overlords.
Posts: 313
|
Post by gmonkey on Jun 9, 2017 13:19:35 GMT
|
|
|
Post by tapecrawler on Jun 10, 2017 3:10:01 GMT
Another option is to cut a slit in the top of the cork. You don't have to glue it to the cork but it can make painting the feet more challenging.
|
|
|
Post by tesoe on Jun 11, 2017 0:02:26 GMT
A small pair of locking pliers or vice grips would work too. They come in surprisingly small sizes.
|
|
|
Post by tapecrawler on Jun 11, 2017 22:50:00 GMT
The nicest things about wine corks is they come free in bottles of wine. I can't stand the sour grape juice myself but my wife likes it and I've managed to build up a collection of quite a few over the past few years. 😜
|
|