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Post by Soul Samurai on Sept 20, 2017 13:49:51 GMT
Army Painter have a set of washes that are basically the same (to my knowledge) as regular washes, like what you would get from GW - Devlan Mud (or whatever it's called now) and that sort of thing; I think that might be what you've used? So these ones: However, they also have a type of shading varnish that comes in large tins. Using these is typically called "dipping" because you traditionally dip the whole model into the tin. This is the one I'm talking about: While these have the same names as the washes, they behave differently. They are not water based and cannot be watered down with water (I think they can be thinned with spirits perhaps? Don't quote me on that, I've never tried it). Because they are a gloss varnish as well as a shade, you don't need to apply a gloss afterwards. In theory this saves you time, unless of course you don't normally use a gloss varnish and jump straight to matt. Regardless of whether you care for the varnishing effect or not, I like quickshave varnish for it's shading properties. Perhaps because it's thicker and doesn't flow as much as most washes (while still having good leveling qualities), I find it's very good at applying shading to organic shapes like musculature, where a normal wash would not get as nice a gradient. Also, while it DOES darken the whole model a little, in my experience it doesn't change the overall colour or brightness as much as most traditional washes do (unless you've thinned down the wash quite a lot, in which case you have issues with the actual shading). Also, Quickshade can work pretty well over almost any colour, where most washes need to be selected based on the underlying colour and only applied to parts of the model. It's not quite as easy to use as the advertising would have you believe (you need to watch it for a while after applying in order to wick up excess and wipe off runs - it takes a bit of practice), but it's still a fast and easy way to get pretty nice shading on a model. While it might sound like I'm trying to sell you the stuff, the truth is that I don't actually use it all that often. I've used it on my Khador jacks to pretty good effect though, and as I said before I like how it shades organic shapes, so I think it will would work well on your pigs.
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cassus
Junior Strategist
Posts: 156
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Post by cassus on Sept 20, 2017 14:18:19 GMT
Ya I swear by these washes. I used the dark tone on the metal parts and the soft brown on their skins.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Sept 20, 2017 14:36:42 GMT
Ya I swear by these washes. I used the dark tone on the metal parts and the soft brown on their skins. Sorry, do you mean the "dropper bottle" inks or the "tin" varnish/dips? Maybe it's just the lighting in the photos or something, but the pictures of the pigs didn't look like what I would expect them to if you had applied the varnish-based Quickshade dip.
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cassus
Junior Strategist
Posts: 156
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Post by cassus on Sept 20, 2017 14:38:22 GMT
I use the dropper bottles not the dips.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Sept 20, 2017 16:11:48 GMT
I suggest giving the dip varnish a try, like I said it's not the same as the washes/inks.
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Post by Aegis on Sept 21, 2017 7:09:56 GMT
I use the dropper bottle shades. They are my washes of choice. They work pretty much identically to the old Devlan Mud and the other GW washes, but without the foul smells and without the white patina that the new GW washes do if they pool too much in some areas.
I also strongly suggest them if you are looking for a good wash.
About the dipping varnish, I have a friend that used it. I have seen the results, and honestly are pretty good. You just give the model the base colors and then dip it, and the shades comes out very well (actually, even better than the shades of water-based shades, since the thickness of the varnish makes for smoother transitions and in general better shades. It also makes pop details like engravings or other armor decorations very well).
It's a very good way for a gamer that doesn't want to spend too much time painting to get a good-looking army in a very short time.
That said, that tecnique has some limits:
1) The varnish is very glossy, so after it dries you have to apply an hand of Matt Warnish (Army Painter also produces a very good one) to make it look ok. That, on the other side, likely kills metals anyway, so you either have to stick with not-very-good metals or you have to repaint them after the matt warnish.
2) You don't get to chose different colors for different shades in the various parts of the model. The whole mini will be either shaded black or brown. That can be a problem with some color combinations since not every color is shaded well by both colors.
3) The dipping shade is very thick, so it tends to fill details a bit. That is not a problem if the varnish is the last step on the model (or if you just add matt transparent varnish after it), but it can be a problem if you want to add other layers after the shading (like a layer of highlight), since some natural details of the model can become less sharp after the dipping.
4) It's a tecnique that caps your painting skill. It's great to get a reasonable-nice level model even for beginners (one that you would rate 6,5 or 7-), but if you use it, you will never go above that. The quickshade does most of the work, so there isn't much room for improving. You will get your "fine-nice" models constantly and quickly, but you will never get a "great" model (an "8" or more) using that technique. The image posted before (the guy with the torch) is a pretty realistic and achiveable result with just base colors + quickshade + matt warnish. As you can see, it's a nicely painted model, but not a spectacular one. That is the level the dipping pretty much sticks to.
As said, different tools for different goals. For sure dipping makes even less excusable un-painted armies, since even a beginner painter with not much time available can get a nice-looking army in a very short time doing it, but it's not a tool that I would suggest for people who want to try to improve and with the goal to be able to paint great looking models someday.
That said, if the goal is to paint quick, I totally agree that dipping is great, and the painting scheme of the skorne models in this topic would work very well with the brown dipping paints.
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Post by tapecrawler on Sept 21, 2017 21:01:10 GMT
I've done quite a bit of "dipping" 10,000 or so points of Flames of War models in 15 mm scale. It works great but not so much if you actually dip it. I've seen people that have a jig that hooks into a drill to sling the excess off. I tried it a couple of times and it makes a horrendous mess unless you're pretty careful. The best way I've found was to actually paint it on the model with a brush and let it sit about five minutes and wick away the drips with the paintbrush. It's really efficient when painting large numbers of minis because you can use the excess off of one model to shade another. It's really fast and kind of fun because you can get so many models to a good gaming level paintjob in no time compared to the conventional techniques.
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Post by Soul Samurai on Sept 21, 2017 22:51:22 GMT
Agreed, I prefer to paint it on and wick up the excess.
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cassus
Junior Strategist
Posts: 156
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Post by cassus on Oct 9, 2017 12:53:03 GMT
Since the themepacolyse I have been list building and painting more than I have been playing but I did manage to finish this unit of brigands up for DOA. They are not sealed yet as it has been raining way to much around here for me to be able to seal them safely. I think Im going to take a break from beasts and units and do a warlock and really take my time with it. I want to get away from batch painting for a bit.
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cassus
Junior Strategist
Posts: 156
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Post by cassus on Nov 8, 2017 12:00:36 GMT
Ive been debating for a while how I am going to paint my immortals. Mainly its come down to do I paint them to match the box art or do I try and do them as jade statues. So far I have done two quick test paints of jade to try and see which I like more. Im not sure that I am happy with either of these schemes so I might do one in the black scheme to see if I like that more.
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cassus
Junior Strategist
Posts: 156
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Post by cassus on Nov 14, 2017 13:19:53 GMT
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cassus
Junior Strategist
Posts: 156
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Post by cassus on Nov 14, 2017 13:21:37 GMT
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Post by Soul Samurai on Nov 14, 2017 14:20:04 GMT
Simple but effective.
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cassus
Junior Strategist
Posts: 156
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Post by cassus on Jan 19, 2018 13:09:29 GMT
So I know its been a while since my last update, i've been slacking on my painting lately but I did finally get a new model finished and soon hopefully I'll get fully back into the swing of things. So what did I finally get painted, my Rhinodon! (just in time for the spiny growth changes)
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Post by Soul Samurai on Jan 22, 2018 11:25:37 GMT
I like the armour, but the skin looks a little too smooth to me, especially on his back. Have you considered applying the kind of "carapace" effect that Tyranids and Legion Warbeasts are often painted with? Something like this (but less exaggerated of course):
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